Greyboard Guide: Thickness, Uses & How to Choose

Greyboard is one of those “hero” materials that turns up everywhere in creative learning — from model-making and DT projects to bookmaking, mounting, and sturdy classroom displays. If you’ve ever wondered which thickness you actually need, or how to cut it cleanly without frustration, you’re in the right place.

Greyboard sheets and classroom tools for model makin

In a rush?

For most classroom projects, 1000 micron is a brilliant all-rounder. If you need extra rigidity for structures, book covers, or anything that needs to stand up on its own, go for 1500 micron.

 

What is greyboard?

Greyboard is a dense, recycled board made from compressed paper fibres. It’s stronger and more uniform than typical “cardboard packaging”, which makes it much easier to work with for neat results — especially when you want crisp edges, reliable folds, and sturdy structures.

In schools it’s a go-to for DT, art, model-making, and display work because it:

  • Holds its shape (great for 3D builds)
  • Cuts cleanly with the right technique
  • Takes glue and paint well (especially if you prep it)
  • Is excellent value for bulk classroom use

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1000 vs 1500 micron: which should I choose?

“Micron” is a way of describing thickness. The bigger the number, the thicker (and stiffer) the board.

Thickness Best for What it feels like Top tip
1000 micron General classroom use, collages, backing, light modelling, templates, mounts, display work, booklet covers Firm but still easy to cut and score. Great all-rounder. If you’re unsure, start here — it suits most KS1–KS3 activities.
1500 micron Strong structures, freestanding models, bookbinding boards, durable covers, engineering-style builds Noticeably stiffer and more “board-like”. Needs a bit more effort to cut. Score first, then cut with multiple light passes for a clean edge.
Quick choosing checklist
  • If it needs to stand up (tower/bridge/building): choose 1500 micron
  • If it needs to be cut by students more easily: choose 1000 micron
  • If it’s a base/backing for art: 1000 micron is usually perfect
  • If it’s for book covers or very durable work: 1500 micron

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Best uses (schools, clubs, and home learning)

In the classroom

  • DT model-making: bridges, vehicles, towers, packaging prototypes
  • Art: sturdy backing for paint, collage, printmaking, mixed media
  • Displays: durable labels, headers, hanging signs, bunting
  • STEM builds: ramps, marble runs, mechanisms (cams/levers)

Clubs & after-school creativity

  • Stop motion sets and scenery
  • Board-game making
  • 3D sculpture bases
  • Project portfolios and cover boards

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Cutting & shaping tips (no tears, no tantrums)

The biggest difference between “messy edges” and “clean professional results” is usually technique. Greyboard likes a steady hand and multiple light cuts rather than one heavy push.

What you’ll need

  • Metal ruler (plastic can slip)
  • Cutting mat
  • Sharp blade (blunt blades cause tearing)
  • Pencil + set square (for right angles)

How to cut greyboard neatly

  1. Mark your line clearly (light pencil is fine).
  2. Score first with a light pass to “set” the cut.
  3. Repeat with 2–4 light passes until it cuts through (especially for 1500 micron).
  4. Keep the ruler still and your fingers well away from the cutting path.

how to cut greyboard

Teacher tip:

For student use, pre-cut the tougher structural pieces (especially 1500 micron) and let pupils cut 1000 micron parts with closer supervision depending on age and policy.

 

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Gluing, painting & finishing

Best adhesives for greyboard

  • PVA: great for most classroom builds (clamp/hold while drying).
  • Glue sticks: fine for paper-on-board covering, not ideal for structural joins.
  • Double-sided tape: fast for display work and light assembly.

Painting & decorating

  • Paint both sides (or seal) to reduce warping on larger pieces.
  • For a smoother finish, cover with paper first (great for display headers).
  • Use masking tape for clean paint edges.
Warping warning:

Any water-based paint or glue can cause slight bowing on large areas. The fix is simple: apply evenly, press flat while drying, or coat both sides.

 

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Storage & classroom safety

  • Store flat wherever possible to keep sheets straight.
  • Keep dry (moisture can cause softening/warping).
  • Blade safety: always use a cutting mat and follow your setting’s tool policy.
  • Transport: use a folder or box to protect edges and corners.

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Greyboard FAQs

Is greyboard the same as cardboard?

Not quite. “Cardboard” often means packaging board that can be uneven or corrugated. Greyboard is dense and uniform, designed for reliable cutting and building.

Which thickness is best for schools?

1000 micron is usually the best all-rounder for classroom activities. Choose 1500 micron when you need extra stiffness for structures or durable covers.

Can you paint greyboard?

Yes. For best results, use an even coat and consider painting both sides for larger pieces to reduce warping.

Can I cut it with scissors?

For small pieces of thinner board you might manage, but for neat results (and thicker greyboard) a ruler + blade technique is best.

What’s the best way to stop edges looking fuzzy?

Use a sharp blade and make multiple light passes. Heavy pressure is what causes tearing and fuzzy edges.

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